A few days ago I went along to my first prayer in the Grand Mosque here in Bahrain. It was a Friday, the holy day. I have always liked the simplicity of mosques, the vast open spaces, the powerfully plain walls, the elegant geometrical designs, but somehow I always felt like an intruder. A foreigner standing on alien turf. So I went to prayer. I have kind of always had a thing for chill time, reflection, etc so that is how I chose to spend my time. Reflecting on what was going well, who had helped me get where I am, what is the role I play in other's lifes etc.
I have always found the Call to Prayer somewhat inspirational. Not because I am Muslim but more because I can imagine what it would be to stop five times a day and reflect on your life. When you wake at 5am, think about how you would like to spend your day, then at 11am... what have you done with your time so far today, then 4pm, and before and after dinner. I am never sure what is being said as the prayers cry out over the city, but I have this somewhat romantic view of what life would be like if everyone carefully reflected on their lives and the lives of those around them before going to sleep. Very communal.
So, back to the prayer service itself. We walked in through the huge main doors, removed our shoes before making our way into the mosque itself. The room was already full, possibly 2000 other men and children, we took our places, lining our toes along the patterned carpet. Up front an Imam spoke in Arabic. I heard the words Syria, Iraq, Jordan and Palestine, and a friend later translated it to be 'pray for our people in...'. The speech reminded me very much of a church sermon back home, it continued for a period of time. Then it was time for the prayer service itself.
The place was packed yeah, with people spilling out the doors, unable to get in. It was amazing to watch the people re-organise themselves, moving forward and forward, all the time keeping to the same grid lines laid out by the pattens on the floor. This allowed everyone to fit, and it also created a really strong bond between everyone there. It was once explained to me that 'you stand shoulder to shoulder with your brother so that the devil can not stand by your side'. I like that. Evenutally everyone was settled... and now came another decision: to bow and pray like everyone else... or to stand out...
Out of respect I chose to follow those around me, bowing, kneeling, standing. I must say that prostrating myself alongside 2000 other men in a mosque on a Gulf island was not something I would have envisaged some 18 months ago. It felt odd and alien, but I reassured myself that it was similar to if I invited to a friend to a Christian mass back home.
At the end of it I felt honoured that my friend had allowed me to share this experience with him. I am not sure if he realised how unique an experience he was showing me. I have been spending the New Years period thinking on all that I have experienced and learned. I think the biggest thing is: I feel comfortable and safe in the Arab countries I have visited (Morocco, Egypt, Yemen and Bahrain). That I have found everyone to be overwhelmingly friendly and warm... more on this to come...
I am trying to imagine my organisation without the Middle East, however I will save that for a different post.
