A powerful country: Yemen

Ali, was our guide, driver and above all friend on our four day tour of the northern hinterland. Ali, through his stories and customs, invited us into the world of the Yemeni Bedouins. A deep thinker, wise, caring with a gentle sense of humour. Ali made our trip what it was, going well beyond the call of duty and setting a high standard for generosity and hospitality. Ali told many a funny story about growing up in desert tent communities, being responsible for camel herding, moving his family to a village, fighting in the civil war, and a great story about how much trouble he once had distinguishing his fully covered wife when she was sitting amongst a large group of women in a hospital... his full name is Ali Ahmed Ali Abdulla Moseh Nassar Hajem Howar (he forgot some here)Aldrani. Ali, thankyou.


Knife Dancing in Amran. Couldn't pass up this opportunity. The drums, the crowd, the ancient city and the living attitude of the locals.


The mountains of Yemen are striking. We stood for days staring out over the vast expanses. I live in Bahrain, the highest natural point here is a little over 100meters above sea level. There is something incredibly soothing, peaceful and thought provoking about mountains and valleys.


More mountains. I spent much time in 'deep thought mode' realising that what I was seeing around me was a country rich in culture, that had remained untouched for millenia.


The Wedding. This was a surprise, we came across this wedding in tiny village at the top of a mountain ridge. Hundreds had gathered to give their blessing to the groom. People danced to the tune of local drumming, as each new group joined the music would stop and they would sing a call and response chant to each other to recognise the new comers. We were invited to share a meal of powerfully good, entirely unname-able food. The host Ali came to welcome us and invite us to chew qat with the men in the after ceremony... just another example of the fine hospitality of the Yemeni people. oh yeah, you might notice the guys are dancing with rifles... the gun ratio in Yemen is said to be 3:1 (guns to people), but they are treated with high respect. I guess you learn how to handle one when you carry them around your whole life.



Goats. Goats on, or near, roads was a common sight. For some reason goats make me chuckle.


Yemen is green. Enough said. The table lands leading up to the mountain ranges were covered in low rise trees and crops. It was a bit of a surprise.


Sana'a. A powerfully old city. The entire old city is world heritage listed and features this style of architecture. The place is amazingly safe and incredibly friendly. Highlights? Finding random food places, being invited to drink tea with locals, braving a barber shop (haircut and shave), listening to the kids play with their fireworks, picking out the different ways one can tie a turbin (ghutra), and of course, passing Eid with our travel agents, chewing qat in the visitors room that sits atop each of the old houses... amazing place. highly recommended.